Ghosts in the Caribbean

We finally settled in, got over jet lag with lots of rest. We now have been out two straight days looking for and chasing Permit; we have seen 20 in two days and have been able to cast to three. Needless to say, they are very hard to catch. However, I must say chasing fish is only one part of  the fun getting to the fishing flats is an adventure within itself. We combed the flats, landed on an island  with lots of friendly inguanas, and negotiated the channels in the mangroves that will rival the jungle ride at Disneyland.

The flats


After the flats we headed to have lunch at Iguana island. The island sit out in the middle of Ascension Bay, full of palm trees with coconuts and white sandy beaches straight from a Corona beer commercial. 

Iguana island. Note the table and chairs in the shade.

As we landed on the island, the iguanas amazingly ran to greet us just as a dog would do.

Note the iguanas on the ground and trees and near the boat.

My new friend, Mr Iguana

Navigating the mangrove channels; just like a Disneyland ride.

Riviera; noun. 1. A coastal region with subtropical climate and vegetation

Our day today didn't start off too early; thank goodness since yesterday proved to be a long day.  And for me a rough night since I shared a room with what appeared to be Darth Vader, but in reality it was a loud snorer. After breakfast we made our way down to the hotel lobby to meet up with our driver, Manuel who drove us straight to Tulum. A somewhat nice drive along the Rivera Maya, which every year gets more and more developed with mega resorts. Hopefully a moratorium will be put in place to safeguard what is left of the jungle.

Map depicting Punta Allen below Tulum

We made our way to Tulum to grab some lunch and buy any last minute items we needed since once 

in Tulum, we would make our way on a bumpy dirt road into the Sian Ka'an reserve. We loaded up on liquid refreshments, a handful of good Cuban cigars and off we went past the ruins. 

El Castillo (the Castle) ruins on Tulum's beach

We went past hotel row in Tulum and finally reached the dirt road entrance to the a biosphere. We 

had to register with the guards and obtain our permits and agree to abide by the rules. 

Guard station at the biosphere's entrance.

And off we went down the dusty, bumpy road until we reached a place called Boca Paila. Boca
(mouth) because a channel connects the lagoons with the Caribbean ocean. The Aquamarine colors of the water captivate the iris of your eyes.....

Cancun.... Paradise lost in a jungle of people

We finally arrived after a long day on two delayed flights and transfers. It is no fun when the airline doesn't have enough immigration forms for its passengers.  Upon arrival to the Cancun airport the entire group of passengers had to casually make their way to a find immigration forms and fill these out with ink-less pens. What a challenge! After clearing customs, Brian found the nearest bar and moved quickly to get us liquid refreshments that proved to be a heavenly libation in balmy weather despite it being 9:30 PM. I love Mexico!!! Its aromas, its people (my people), its food, its culture.......

Nothing like Negra Modelo on tap.....after a long flight

After our beer we proceeded to get checked in, discussed fishing opportunities and expectations over 

a fine lager beer of a German brewmaster that made Mexico his home in the XX century thus the 

name. We also enjoyed a gastronomic tasting of the local fare, which included green chicken

enchiladas and cochinita pibil (ko-cheen-ee-tah pee-beale)tacos; a local dish of the Yucatan which consists of shredded pork marinated in "achiote", a local plant that gives a truly distinct flavor and red coloring. Add a bit of red onion cured in lime juice and vinegar and diced fresh habanero peppers and you have a recipe that will change your political views or prompt you to take three Prilosec pills in one swig of water. 

A fine chelada 

The Whole Enchilada.....literally

Cochinita Pibil tacos .... Mmmmm 

Wingless flies travel far

Delusions of grandeur flood my mind of what could have been but was not. Half a century has been longing to mark me and has finally arrived. I will celebrate such a milestone by fulfilling a lifetime dream to chase four species of fish in the aquamarine waters of the Mexican Caribbean; the hard core anglers call it a "Grand Slam"-Permit, Bonefish, Tarpon and Snook all caught in one day-I call it a blessing. I have been so lucky to have been asked to accompany a flyfishing legend and renowned outdoor photographer; Brian O'Keefe (www.catchmagazine.net) as he shoots his next big job chasing Permit in Asencion Bay.  I will learn from Brian and will feel privileged to hold a strobe light or a fish underwater as he magically captures the kaleidoscope of  life through the eyes of a fisherman. I anxiously prepare and have visions of a remote peninsula in the Mayan jungle, deep in the Sian Ka'an biosphere reserve; my thoughts wander.  The thought of forgetting a piece of equipment, or carefully chosen flies makes my heart race in a panic, since I know whatever I do not bring, I must go without. A flight to Cancun, three hours South on a two lane highway, then a pothole dirt road, then a boat ride to somewhere near the Belize border.....far from civilization but so close to the Mayan gods..... Raghead crabs, Puglisi crabs, Crazy Charlies, Chili Peppers...... names of flies that invoke deceiving elusive fish with long angelical casts. As I begin to organize these flies, anticipation builds........